if anything with air filter , use degreaser and wash your filter again in soap and water, you be surprize the dirt left after the first cleaning, always by three really good aftermarket filters and keep the stock one for when ya sell it, unless you buy a husky, then they come with a top of range filter
oil changes , buy a two banger,lol as for 4t's most pros who have oil thrown at em change every three hours, a oil filter evey 6hrs,basic every second oil change. remember that oil needs to be in for awhile to allow the detergents to work, hence why oil comes out black. Change oil if its been a long high speed rise over a few hours,like finke ,only because the oil breaks down
Air Filter: Yep I agree .... I soak in BP degreaser in a bucket lifting it in & out of the degreaser to flush it (i use my wife's cake cooling stand to keep it off the bottom of the bucket), then I wash out all the dgreaser with water (it's usually milky at first then goes clear). I then wash a few times with soapy water (dishwashing liquid) then rinse heaps with water. Leave to dry..... re oil by immersing in air filter oil, squeeze out as much of the excess as possible then wrap up once or twice in kitchen paper towel to make sure.... Grease around the sealing area then refit. I have tried the Ready filters,.... they are a little too expesnive to change out heaps which you have to up in the NT cause of the fine bull dust.... Pity a sponsor of some sort can't be found with this one !!!
Oil Changes: Agree again.... I change every thre to five hours..... I came across 20 odd liters of oil so I do it often.... Oil filter every change too only cause I found a bloke on ebay that does the HF116 filter for my 450 for $25 for four of them!!! Once I have to pay full price I will cut back to five hours.... I'll still do filter every time
Chain: I use $2.00 degreaser from Supacheap or Independant Motormart.... Spray on chain.... leave for 2 mins or so then hose off.... I use a soft brush if req'd..... Dry off by running bike on centre stand or by air compressor (lightly) then relube
I'll post my 'anal' washing routine next time round just fill this stuff in the gaps where required....
i dont agree with the degreser and air compressor on chain, esp o ring chains as it will wreak the rubber with the degreaser and the air will force dirt into the bushes.
The degreaser is on there for 60 sec max and I wet the chain with norm H2O first, chain still look brand new, no evidence of wear at all, x rings all look fine.
As for air.... I'm approx 30cm away using the tyre inflator nozzle so the air is not point focal on th chain...
Two things 1. Degreaser is way too harsh for the filter it will break down the micro structure in airfilter foam. What would you like to splash in your eye, kero/turps or degreaser.
2. Clean filter with Turps (250 ml), then use it on the chain. Do that two or three times and wash the filter in warm water. Strong caustic laundry detergent I reckon would dissolve micro structure. Again Baby shampoo or Omo powder in your eye, your choice. New chain lube on the remarkibly clean and already oil soaked chain that hasn't seen water and away you go.
1 - The degreaser I use is BP degreaser.... Water Soluable and biodegradeable..... I found it easier on the hands too....
2 - Used turps for ages but it costed a fortune..... $20 for 4lt and living up here (NT) in the fine bulldust I'm doing filters every ride so I'm trying to find a cheaper alternative.... I'm close to bulk ordering Ready Filters from the states and doing away with the cleaning filters alltogether.....
I do wash...& wash.... & wash... & wash the filter in warm soapy water after the degreaser does it's job..... usually dishwashing liquid (SWMBO gets grumpy cause I do the final rinse in the kitchen sink) LMAO
Will give your idea a go and do a cost comparison....
I just did a valve clearence check on the MIGHTY CRF450R 07 Intake - 0.16mm Exhaust - 0.30mm all sweet.
Whilst there I thought what tha hey and lubed the cables for the hot start and clutch, replaced the sparkplug with a fresh one, bike didn't like starting hot (original plug still 49.8hours old oops).
After putting it all together I started the beast up..... First kick FIRE BREATHING AGAIN
Of course I had to go for a squirt up and down the street to harass the neighbours...
Enagaed the clutch and 'CLUNK' bike didn't lurch forward but was definately rough to put into gear (not usually)... I adjusted the 'on the fly' adjuster and i got a little better but still did it a little.... Felt good when riding but not when stationary...
Any ideas on why this would start all of a sudden??? I am going to try more adjusting and fiddling tomorrow but honestly all I did was lube the cable and put it back together !!!
Still orignal clutch.... Oil changes every 3 - 5 hours religously !!! I don't fan the clutch heaps or ride the clutch through corners.... ???????????????????????????
Bike started first kick when hot.... I shut it down, layed it down then picked it up, two blips of throttle, hotstart in, 1st kick started !!!! Woo Hoo
It would definitely be in the adjustment. To check this, pinch the plastic housing over clutch cable between your fingers near the perch and pull away from the perch, with your other hand gently pull on the lever making note how much your fingers move. This should only be approx 1-3mm. If not adjust the on the fly adjuster to get this right. You don't want completey no free play or you will destroy your clutch from slipping and too much will cause the clutch to become very jumpy, no progression.
K, i'll try that tomorrow b4 I ride.... If I get this bit right and I still get that 'clunk' when putting into 1st or 2nd from nuetral then what.....?/?
Should the in-line adjuster fix this up or could the clutch plates & springs need replacing?? It doesn't bight or grab nor does it slip... It feels great once going it just 'clunks' to start !!!
The subject I would like to talk on is Air Filters; I like to offer some ideas and advise to help you make a decision what is right for you. So I will put down in point form.
# The air filter that comes with the bike is a lesser standard that what is available, yes the European bikes have better air filters but speaking with other factory mechanics they have said even these are lesser than what you would buy from the same filter company, so if the budget allows buy yourself at least three good quality aftermarket filters, that way you can clean as you go along and you will always have a fresh filter for your ride (if you cleaned the others)
# The oil, there is some good filter oil out there and there is shockers, I not going to tell you what we use as this isn’t the place to promote products, in saying that I look for a tacky type, put a few drops between your fingers then stretch them apart and see if it forms “strings” in between, that’s a “tacky” oil. Remember that the oil has solvents in it to help with its distribution into the filter, store in a cool place with the lid on, to place out in the sun to thin it out only makes the oil get thicker over time, as the solvents “leech” out of the plastic container, this is why I don’t advocate the use of a oiling drum nor taking oil out to the race track, its better to have a pre oiled filter ready in a sealed bag or container. These solvents also made bikes harder to start if you try to start a bike straight after replacement of filter, but this depends on the temp and humidity, a few minutes the solvents will be gone.
# Squeeze don’t wringe, by this I mean the application of the oil to the filter, I always oil from inside to out, so as I squeeze excess out it pushes any dirt that may be left behind. When squeezing you only want to see the oil bubble out between your fingers, if it’s running out over your hands and onto the floor, use less next time. Why you don’t wringe is that it breaks the fibres in the filter, which means the holes get bigger so it’s making it harder for the oil to do its job. Also it stretches the filter, this means it will be a looser fit on the cage and will promote “drumming” that is the air filter material flaps away then back again against the cage as you open and close the throttle, and this allows the dirt to be vibrated into the filter deeper. Make sure the filter is completely dry before oiling, yes I have heard that the oil will disperse the water out of the filter, but I believe that it leaves gaps without oil in-between the outer and inner layer
# On to cleaning, this one causes the most talk, Ok as for cleaning solvent, yes kero is made of the same stuff as petrol, but it has less of the others chemicals in it that the petrol companies use to enhance performance or clean engines etc. All solvents will over time break down the filter, yes it’s the glue, but more important is what you can’t see, remember I spoke before on the fibres and the holes of the filter, any solvent will break them down, and open them up so to speak. So the idea of three filters helps because the filter gets attacked less than just one filter would. So if you got spare filters petrol is ok, not great but ok. Kero is better, some use degreaser but again remember it is a solvent too. So why do we use the solvent, simple it’s to breakdown the oils tackiness to remove the dirt from the filter, the filter isn’t exposed to it very long. So you can make a decision what you use.
Yet this is the first part. Once you used the solvent of your choice then wash it again in warm soapy water, not hot as it will breakdown those dam fibres again. I use dishwashing liquid because of the grease cleaning abilities, some use mild clothes powder, but I think a liquid is better because it doesn’t contain caustic and leave a soap powder residue in the filter. This is done after the solvent has had time to dissipate from the filter. The reason you soapy wash is to soften the filter to allow it to let go of the deeper trapped dirt, as most filter these days are two layers, the outer is course the inner is fine, the inner layer can still hold dirt or fine dust particles that you cant see. I been surprised that some say this doesn’t make a difference, as after washing in soapy water, look in the bucket you see what I mean. Then a final rinse, I use a hose and rinse from inside to out. Remember that most oils have dyes in them so blue or red staining is normal and don’t go silly trying to remove it. Dry the filter not in direct sun light or in a clothes drier, those fibres will thank you.
# Refitting, I use surgical gloves to remove, then put another pair on to refit the clean filter, I been surprised when I see guys refit with the muck still on the gloves from the removal. The gloves are there so you don’t absorb the solvents from the oil and also if you are fitting just before a ride, tacky hands in gloves are asking for blisters. I seen factory mechanics put on two sets and remove the first layer after removal.
# One of the most important things I seen missed in all the advise I read on the folder about this subject is the lack on grease applied to the rim of the air filter. This is a thin layer of grease you apply to the lip of the filter where it “mates” to the airbox, it does two things, one is to seal the filter the other is to reduce the friction rub from vibration. You see once a filter starts to get dirty, the intake of air in modern bikes is so enormous that the air will find the easy path, a lot of times it will find its way around that seal bringing any dirt with it, especially when the filter is getting full the engine will pull the filter against the cage and gaps will appear at the lip, sort off peeling effect. If you are a guy that uses filter skins and put them on to the lip to stop the skin peeling off the filter, apply a thicker grease layer to compensate for the difference the skin makes once removed.
# When to change, when I raced pro, I be on the bike for an average of 20hours a week, I change the filter before each ride, that would be pretty much what I suggest to you, yet commonsense should prevail as if you rode out front of a race or practice in not so dusty conditions then have a look at the filter before your next ride, as a guide I look to see if I can see the writing on the filter or be able to still see holes of the material and or then amount of dirt that you can physically see to make the judgement wether to change or not.
I seen some talk about changing every race, ok I not sure what tracks you race on, but most I ever raced on the track is watered and even at pro level you only racing tops six races in a day 20 to 30 minutes each time, that’s about 2 hours total that the bike is going. Some say its to keep the horse power up there, I tell you one thing even at pro level a modern 450 has enough power that even they cant handle, but at that level the bikes throttle is open for longer and harder, most factories might change one in the middle of the day and that’s more for engine survival than horse power.
Also changing in-between races exposes the bike to dirt, open air box very fine dust gets in; it would be done in a hurry leaving to chance you may not fit the filter properly, better to check it, make the decision if it’s really worth doing. On the other hand Enduro riders don’t have the luxury of watered riding, but I would apply the same, yes if it’s a two day you would be changing for the next day. For general riders every time you going out for a ride will be ok. Take a second air filter if you going away for a weekend , even then I would just check first as we done courses in some pretty dusty conditions over two days and ours filters have been fine to go the two days with no loss of power or performance which is really noticeable on 125’s if it occurred.
# Give your air filter a chance, in muddy conditions, seal up the box intakes with tape, that is if you have side air intakes.
So why is the air filter so important, think about it, a modern bike, especially four strokes run on such fine tolerances, its formula one technology. It doesn’t take much dust to affect the valve seats or piston, the carb slide wears quicker so in turn affect both performance and starting. Also, not to mention the cost of replacement parts and reliability. Leaving a dirty air filter on a bike only increases the chance of the engine sucking it in. I read about leaving a little old oil in a bike engine can equate to the same, if the bike is warmed up properly before draining it would leave at max 100ml of dirty oil , if that. The damage that would do doesn’t equate to what a “dusted” engine would cost.
Had a bit of a look around and can't seem to find much other than you might have to wait a while and will be about half the price of the club version. Check out some of the EVS neck braces and the neck rolls, they're seem pretty good. Tye
Hey Purto. The new leatt's are out now. I know the bike shop here in toowoomba has them. Give Ian from Toowoomba Bikes and Bits a call on 07 46 321 700. Regards, Tye
Hey Purto, I dunno about Lyndon or Tye but I won't be... I'll be just getting back from a deployment and highly unlikely I'd get the time off (LOL) ...
Have to push back to 2011... Would have a new bike (not sure what yet) by then and hopefully trained HEAPS for it. We are planning on doing more Enduro events than MX (well that's the last Lyndon I spoke of doing)....
Sorry for the delay in answering you we have all been real flat out.
We trust all is well. ???
Let us if know if you guys ever need a course run in beautiful downtown Katherine (or Darwin) again